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RE: 2000 dodge 5.9 fuel prob
You might also want to ask over at DTR Forum
in any case... I think your truck has a VP44 high pressure pump and if the lift pump was starving it, it could be damaged? Not sure of the details on that - but I ran across that info when I was having CP3 troubled on my truck.
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davelinde
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08/22/08 08:07am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Jake Plates on Jayco 315 FBHS
I am just curious to see if you guys think it would be worth the time and trouble...Are there any advantages of lowering the center of gravity 3" by adjusting the axles that would justify the time involved in doing this? It pulls fine the way it is now.
My opinion fwiw...
The lower CG is less likely to roll over (which is unlikely in the first place with a FW but still something you want to keep to a VERY low probability).
ALSO, the spring hangers are welded to the frame and the higher the rig the more stress on those welds as the jake-plate has more leverage. Again, not a huge factor... but lower is better.
All that said, on my old rig (identical to yours if I'm not mistaken) I ran at the highest setting for 3 years with zero issues. On my new rig I am at the lowest setting and slightly nose high and will probably leave it there. I looked at those hangers and just didn't like the idea of adding all that leverage.
Just an opinion - either choice is probably OK.
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davelinde
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08/22/08 07:56am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: 5th wheel hitch question
Jeeze guys..we only use the truck maybe 1% of the time to tow a trailer; the other 99% is used for hauling stuff
So, like it or not, I found the permanent rails to be a PITA, and I hope the OP does go with removable rails. I do not care if he spends thousands of dollars in the process. ..hope you have not misled him into believing that permanent rails are all roses
Before I got my bed rails I was very concerned about this issue. However I decided not to spend the extra $$'s on the Pullright (or carry the extra weight of the Pullright). Now that I've had bed rails for 4 years I (personally) found it to be far less of an issue than I was worried about. Frankly I'm more often annoyed that I have a shortbed than that I've got rails.
While it is rarely an issue for loading, I do agree that the rails do collect stuff caught under them and are very hard to clean. I am considering a new truck at some point and am considering a clean bed solution... not Pullright but B&W Companion (also on the expensive side).
There are always trade-offs and what is critical to one person may be a non-issue to others.
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davelinde
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08/21/08 08:57am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Water Shut Off
We also turn the water off if we are gonna be gone for a while....started doing that after reading about it on here.
same here.
3 leaks in 4 years... they happen. I put the quarter turn valve on the CG connection and try to remember to turn it off while we are away.
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davelinde
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08/20/08 11:58am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Who is without toys?
Our TH is also for the space and layout. We use the garage as a bedroom/office.
However... now that I CAN haul toys - I've gotten interested in picking up a cheap 150cc scooter. Still investigating them -- there are a lot of choices it seems.
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davelinde
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08/20/08 10:54am |
Toy Haulers
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RE: Inverter install options
THANKS for the help, schematics etc... clarified my thinking here. Here's a cut at answering my own questions. Correction/advise welcome:
I am contemplating adding more battery and an inverter... for running our air-card router, a few portable PC's and maybe the television/DVD. ...I'm thinking a 1000W inverter should be more than enough.
>>1000W is probably more than enough, maybe 600W will do?
How would I connect the AC side?
>>I'd need an inverter with a hardwire option and I'll need to make a new "small load" subpanel
Do I have options?
>> yes... a few.
Can I use a transfer switch?
>> If I want it to be automatic I need the switch.
How would that switch work with the switch for the genset?
>> It goes after the primary 50A switch, between the main panel and new sub-panel. It only needs to be sized to support the subpanel. Some inverters come with built in switches or I can get an external switch.
Is it OK to power the whole house from the inverter so long as I just don't turn on high load items?
>> I think no...
(If I do by accident can I assume the inverter will protect itself and shut off?)
>> The better ones do.
How do I isolate the charger (since it makes no sense to power the charger from the inverter...)
>> Via the new sub panel
So now my question is... where do I get an RV style AC sub-panel and where do I install it?
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davelinde
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08/20/08 10:34am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Heartland Toyhaulers
Check out Heartland Owners Forum for lots of info. I think it's great to have a forum where factory reps actually participate.
We just moved from a Jayco 305BHS to a Cyclone 3210. We chose the Cyclone because it was the shortest floorplan with a bunk over the garage. I'm now in the process of turning the garage into a bedroom and office - though you can also buy beds in the garage as a factory option.
We have only had minor issues so far, though we have only towed a few thousand miles and camped 2 1/2 weeks in the unit. Over all we are pleased, both with the quality of the Heartland product and with the choice to replace our bunkhouse with a TH.
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davelinde
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08/20/08 08:20am |
Toy Haulers
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RE: towing weights....
...You can easily tell if a trailer is too much just by ...LOOKING at your rig all hooked up. If the rear tires are cheeking out, ...it's too heavy.
If you cannot visually inspect for under inflation I'd wonder how you can visually inspect for an overloaded tire?
6500# seems a bit light for a loaded 1 ton diesel truck, is that weighed with passengers and fuel? In any case, the advice is on point - make sure you are not overloading the tires. At 21+ gross, watch transmission temps and accelerate the service intervals on the tranny. Even if you are under the tire limits, be fanatical about tire pressures and run at max.
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davelinde
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08/20/08 07:17am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Jake Plates on Jayco 315 FBHS
I did mine one side at a time.
The hardest part was getting the collar on the bolts to seat correctly (and that was not very hard)
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davelinde
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08/20/08 07:03am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Inverter install options
... if it seems confusing, then it might be best to go with a simple system or hire a pro to install it, or keep asking questions until you understand everything.
Here is what I recomended to several people,..
Install 2 500 watt inverters... When you go dry camping, then get out the inverters and a power strip. When you go to a campground, then you should plug in everything into the RV receptacles.
I have done a lot of electrical wiring and understand it pretty well - though I don't do it every day so I will be sure to understand all the schematics/instructions before anything goes in.
So this option had occurred to me, it does seem cheap (no $200 transfer switch) easy (no doubt about what power is coming from where) but not really optimal since I will need to fish 10ga wire back to the middle of my RV where the TV lives and when I'm done I'll need to manually move the AC back/forth (yes you can call me lazy).
The other option seems to be to get a second $200 transfer switch (I'd need to switch 50A even though the inverter is only 5-10A...) and it seem like I'd need to replace my charger or maybe re-wire it? I am not ready to conclude that my converter/charger "is junk" yet since it surely converts just fine and I'm not convinced it's not charging OK... (I'll look up the make/model later).
Are there other options?
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davelinde
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08/19/08 02:02pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: reese 16k slider hitch not sliding
I installed my own bed rails, and took extra to make sure they were sguare. Being out of sguare will still allow the hitch to be connected to the bed rails, but it could possibily put enough bind to cause sliding problems. Checking for sguare is a easy process, might tell you where the problem is.
Does the hitch slide without the trailer load on it? You should be able to move it by hand when the FW is unhitched.
When I installed mine, the rails were initially slightly out of square and would not move at all. By slightly I mean 1/8" or less. I squared it up and it's been fine ever since. It does slide better lubed too.
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davelinde
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08/19/08 08:08am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: roof ladder strength
...there is no rating tag on any ladders put on trailers, and I know that OSHA would red tag every RV ladder
My ladder is stickered for 300# max - it's made of 1" tubing and the way it's attached that is pretty strong. As a general purpose ladder it might not meet OSHA standards I suppose - but it's a fixed ladder with a single use. For heavier loads I'd be most concerned about the attachment to the roof eventually working loose. However if you climb it "gently" that could be minimized.
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davelinde
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08/19/08 08:03am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: 5th wheel hitch question
I would like the Superglide at 4K installed. They countered with a Reese at 1500 installed.
1) OK with the Reese. ... 9600lb dry.
2) .. haul 2400lb skids .. Will this damage the rails ...?
Superglides highly prized by many here... but $4,000 is a lot for a hitch.
I have a Reese 16K slider and it works fine - rated to 4,000# on the pin. Do check the specs on the model they are offering you. IIRC I bought mine for something like $750 and installed it myself.
The bed rails are pretty sturdy and not very exposed - I would not expect that skids or a forklift would easily damage them. For sure you could place a skid on top of them without crushing them.
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davelinde
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08/19/08 07:50am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Inverter install options
You will need a switch with both shore power and the generator connected to it. When the generator is turn on the switch changes over to it, disconnecting from shore power. They come in both 30 amp and 50 amp sizes and most are automatic.
For a larger inverter (say 1000 watts and above) you might want to get one with an automatic switch. The switch activates when shore power or generator is off so that your 120v system is now powered by the batteries. These inverters can also include 3/4 stage battery chargers.
With the automatic switch inverter, I recommend installing a new breaker box and moving all the circuits to be run from the batteries from the original box to the new one (are the opposite whichever is easier). This will prevent overloading the inverter and will make the system automatic.
Yes, the genset has a transfer switch so generator power and shore power are never both applied at the same time or (and more important I think) generator power is never applied to the shore power side (eg making the male end of my 50A cord HOT!).
So for a small inverter, where would I put the additional switch? I can see how making a small load sub-panel would be nice and allow me to separate the inverter from the converter/charger... but how do the two panels get fed from shore/genset?
Also it looks like a 50A switch costs twice as much as some of the inverters I was looking at...
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davelinde
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08/18/08 06:34pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Inverter install options
Don't mount in the battery box as the fumes from the batts could catch fire from the inverter.Do a search for inverters there is a mess of information about it here.I have been reading stuff for days about this allgreat info,please read before you do anything.
The battery box is in the same storage area that houses the generator compartment - both of these items are separately vented to the outside. There is space above the battery box (next to the genset) and (if safety warranted) I could even build a third enclosure there.
I had searched a little and read a few threads, but didn't glean much about how to get shore power, genset power and inverter power separated and distributed. I'll look some more - if you can point me to the better threads or some good refining search terms I'll happily do that too.
I'm still a few months from buying and installing anything.
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davelinde
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08/18/08 03:01pm |
Tech Issues
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Inverter install options
I am contemplating adding more battery and an inverter to my rig to cover times that we want power but don't want to fire up the generator. Mostly that would be for running our air-card router, a few portable PC's and maybe the television/DVD. For everything else (AC, microwave, coffee maker, compressor) we would run the genset.
I'm not sure about the TV's, but none of the other items are more than 90W tops, so I'm thinking a 1000W inverter should be more than enough.
My question is what options I have for installing it? There is a lot of space in front, next to the genset and the batteries. I thought I could put the inverter in there with the batteries for ease of install and to minimize the DC cable length. How would I connect the AC side? Do I have options? Can I use a transfer switch? How would that switch work with the switch for the genset?
Is it OK to power the whole house from the inverter so long as I just don't turn on high load items? (If I do by accident can I assume the inverter will protect itself and shut off?) How do I isolate the charger (since it makes no sense to power the charger from the inverter...)
I'd rather not run separate AC outlets from the inverter and remember to move the loads back/forth... But I also want something that's idiot proof - for instance, no harm/damage if I had shore power, the genset and the inverter all on together or in any combo by accident?
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davelinde
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08/18/08 10:50am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Firestone Air Bags and Hooking 5th Wheel
I was carrying a 1500# pin .. Now that I have a 2650# pin
Seems like a lot for a 2500 Dodge. What trailer is the 2650# coming from? Jayco 305 is 1410# and Cyclone Spec sheet indicates 2130#. Have you weighed your rig/pin?
I would think a Toybox pin weight would decrease as you load the rig as the 'toys' will end up pretty much behind the axle.
All my weights are weighed. Jayco was close at 1500# and Heartland was not close - first weigh was 2650# (21%)
The rear axle is rated at 6000# and the tires at 3190# each. My first weigh I had 6000# on the rear axle. It's a lot for a 2500 but so far it's working.
And... yes, next trip out I put another 1000# in the rig and moved what I could to the garage. I was able to take 60# OFF the pin (weighed)
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davelinde
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08/16/08 08:35pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Diesel Questions
I have a 2004 5.9 Cummins (pre-cat)
I get 16/17 local driving and 19/20 highway. On my last long highway trip I got 21 (going 68mph give/take).
I was towing 10,000# and the best I ever got was 14 mpg, 12.5 was more typical and I got 11 mpg a few times (all highway all between 65 and 70 mph). Now I'm towing 13,500# and get 9.7 to 10.8 mpg (55-60 mph).
All hand calculated.
Maintenance costs are no big deal so far (74,000 miles). I do the oil myself - yes there are 3 gallons of oil to buy and a filter, but the change interval is 7500 to 15000 miles (I change at 7 to 9000 depending on my towing). There have been no other maintenance items of note.
She starts no problem at low temps. When it got really cold I plugged her in... but I bet I didn't need to do it. (I consider "cold" to be 25F and "really cold" to be 0F, lower than that is "stupid cold you should move" in my book :) )
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davelinde
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08/16/08 08:26pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Trans temps... I've got some data now
I was always told to read the temp in the pan...as this is the fluid going into the trans. The fluid coming out of the trans on the way to the cooler will be hot..but its not going to impact any of the internals since its on the way to the cooler.
That makes perfect sense.
I've recent read some other advice that also indicates a pan reading is the right reading... Still, in my (limited) testing I saw essentially no variation in pan temps with SUBSTANTIAL variation in the internal and hot line temps. Sometimes the internal temp is higher, sometimes the hot line.
My concern is that the heat is coming from somewhere and you can clearly see if the tranny is working (eg a long hill with a heavy load) or if the TC is unlocked (eg backing up with a heavy load). I like to know what's up inside my tranny... but I'm not sure what to do with the info!
At this point I am ignoring my pan temps (they are always low so who cares?) and will keep the gauge internal and on the hot line. I'll see how they both react to various situations. Lately running unloaded they track pretty much 100% with the internal gague running up faster and reading about 10 degrees higher.
For my next long trip (will be in October with ambients lower) I'll drive with the internal gauge at typical 230 and spiking to 250 as long as the hot line remains typical 160 spiking to 180. Dunno - we will see if the tranny melts! :) (oh yes, I'll be driving on new fluids but probably with the old filter)
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davelinde
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08/16/08 08:13pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Question that I'm making my self sick over UPDATED W/ PIC's
Quick update. I just got off of the phone with my insurance company and the salesman and the dealership. Both people said that this is more common than you would think and that it was not a problem at all.
Glad to see that being honest worked out!!! Hope your first trip is going as well.
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davelinde
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08/16/08 08:05pm |
General RVing Issues
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